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Friday, September 27

'Farmland' Canada's Hottest Real Estate Market




How farmland became Canada’s hottest real estate market 

Buy land, advised Mark Twain, because, as the punch line goes, they ain’t making any more of it. Fast forward to 2013 and that advice, as a look at prices for farmland shows, seems as prescient as ever.
As any farmer will readily tell you, the agriculture business has had a tough run. Agriculture was once an economic mainstay. Turn back the clock to 1950 and the sector employed nearly a fifth of Canada’s work force. Today, agriculture accounts for less than 2 per cent of the country’s employed workers, while its share of gross domestic product is also a shadow of what it once was. Farm prices have languished for decades, as Canada’s population has shifted from rural to urban. By the 1990s, North America was losing two acres of productive farmland to development every minute.
How the world has changed for Canada’s farmers in 2013. The hottest sector of the country’s real estate market is, you guessed it, farmland. The price of farmland in Canada has outpaced both residential and commercial real estate, gaining an average of 12 per cent over the last five years. In some hotspots, such as southwestern Ontario, the price-per-acre has been going up by as much as 50 per cent a year. Even pension plans and hedge funds have become players in the pursuit of prime agricultural land, interest that is only sending prices that much higher.
If global food prices are any indication, such investments could be a solid bet. Over the last decade, global food prices have more than doubled, according to the United Nations FAO Food Price Index, which tracks monthly changes in prices for international food commodities. The food riots stemming from that price inflation were part of the spark that set off the Arab Spring. So far this year prices have been falling, but they still remain within shouting distance of the record highs reached in 2011.
The strength in global food prices is no accident. The growth in global food demand is unrelenting. Part of the reason is due to population growth. The world is at 7-billion people and counting. But that’s not the only thing straining food supply. World grain demand has also soared, as households in fast-growing Asian countries trade in rice bowls for cheeseburgers. It takes seven pounds of grain to raise a pound of beef. That’s a whole lot more than it takes to make a loaf of bread. The newfound economic clout in emerging economies such as China and India, which between them have roughly 2.5 billion people, has allowed more people to diversify their diets. In turn, global meat consumption has bounded ahead at double the rate of population growth over the last two decades.
All that demand for protein bodes well for the world’s breadbaskets. That is if Mother Nature doesn’t get in the way first. A severe drought a few years ago forced Russia, the world’s third largest producer of wheat, barley and rye, to suspend grain exports for nearly a year. Before that a drought in China caused a spike in grain prices that affected everything from the price of pasta in Italy to the cost of tortillas in Mexico. Closer to home the US Midwest has been grinding through one of the worst droughts in more than half a century.
Climate change scientists warn that droughts and other agricultural shocks will be even more common in the future. Against a backdrop of climbing temperatures, Canada sits in an interesting spot. With a wealth of arable land and 7 per cent of the world’s fresh water, Canada’s agricultural potential is considerable. It’s also possible the amount of land under cultivation in Canada could actually increase as global temperatures continue to rise and the wheat belt climbs farther north.
Could it be that in the coming years we’ll also see farmers actually start reclaiming acres from far-flung suburbs? The idea is much more plausible now than it was only a few years ago. It was depressed farm prices that allowed prime agricultural land to be paved over in the first place. As food becomes more precious and more expensive, it will only add to the market forces that will push some of those farms to come back.

Courtesy The Globe and Mail 



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Wednesday, September 25

Out with the Old Tile

John Whipple General Contractor

Bad day at the office? Did some jerk cut you off in traffic? Perfect timing for your tile demolition project. Pick up a framing hammer and get rid of your frustration. But before you start swinging, let's look at what can go wrong and what you should do to prepare.

How are you going to protect your home from demo debris and dust? Will your home's heating system pick up the dust from this renovation and spread it through the house? Will you nick a water line and have to scramble for the main water shutoff?

This story can help you prevent potential disaster. Stack the odds in your favor, and learn how to cover the basics here.

Note: Prepping your home properly is important whether you plan to demo on your own or hire a pro. If you DIY, make sure you're comfortable handling heavy demolition equipment — power tools use a lot of force — and have experience with demo work. Demolition is hard and physical, so make sure you're fit for the job and comfortable handling any tool before using it. Use the proper safety equipment, and don't hesitate to call a pro if you're having trouble with this messy, noisy work.

1. Protect your floors. It's easy to forget about floor protection until the dirt, dust and tile pile up. We use Ram Board to protect finished floors. Combined with a plastic tarp, it can keep debris from harming the finished flooring and dust from flying everywhere.
2. Take down art. Any art hanging on a wall should be removed before demolition. Often the stress or vibration of removing tile from the back side of the wall can cause paintings to fall and glass to break.
3. Seal off the space.This doorway is covered with a plastic sheet that seals the room to keep dust from moving throughout the house. The handy zipper allows for easy access.

Make sure you tape these sheets to the door casing and not the wall — when the tape comes off, paint often does, too. We like to use a light tack painter's tape and then a high tack tape to bond to that.
4. Prepare for noise.Removing tile from concrete is always noisy. Unlike chipping tile off a soft substrate like drywall, removing tile from concrete is 10 times the chore. We use a large demolition hammer that chips the floor. I vibrate the tile with the tool using light downward pressure and then chip away the tile. If you live in a multifamily unit, make sure that the other residents know when you're working because the sound can travel through several stories.

5. Protect yourself. Tile demolition isn't just potentially dangerous for your home, it can hurt you, too. Take extra precaution to protect yourself if you're doing any demo on your own, and keep kids and pets out of this space. Look at what I'm wearing in this photo: heavy-duty coveralls, eye protection, lung protection, gloves and ear protection. You'll want to do the same on any demo site.
6. Turn off the main water valve. Shut off the water to the home before doing any demolition in case a wayward blow harms a water line. You should know where your main water shutoff is for your home or rental.

Turning off and removing old plumbing lines is part of any bathroom renovation. Make sure you understand the steps involved before tackling the job yourself.
by shophardcorehammers.com

7. Find the right tools.Unlike a standard hammer, a framing hammer has straighter claws on the back side, which makes it a great pick-axe when flipped around. A carpenter's hammer makes it impossible to strike on a wall — something you'll need to do to chip tile off the wall.

I usually chip through the tile and wall substrate carefully, using the claws of a framing hammer. If there's a backer board, you can usually grip the edges of larger sheets to pull it all down at the same time. Make sure you do this using a full face mask, gloves, long sleeves and pants.
8. Plan how to deal with waste. Demolition waste piles up fast, so you have to plan how you are going to dispose of cardboard, paper and metal. Old drywall will most likely need to be dumped separately. Recently my local landfill banned any drywall with tile attached to it. Find out in advance where you can dispose of what so you can plan your trips to the landfill properly.


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Monday, September 16

8 Ways to make the most of your Laundry Room

Shane Inman


We spend countless hours in our laundry rooms, scrubbing out stains, pressing our best and even washing the dog. Shouldn't we make this space as functional and pleasant as possible?

Laundry rooms have come a long way from the barren basement rooms so many of us grew up with. Take a few tips from these uber-practical laundry-room additions to help you lighten your load.
Refrigerator. Many homes have a second refrigerator in the garage, but these homeowners put one in the laundry room. Building it into the wall helped save space.

Tip: If you're not ready to go that far, a mini fridge (no built-in necessary) could still help you store extra beverages.
Sewing station. Anyone who enjoys sewing knows what a pain it is to set up and take down your clunky machine every time you want to make a repair or tackle a project. A special sewing station in your laundry room can help you get your work done with an ironing board and other necessities nearby.

Tip: Lower the counter height to 30 inches and knock out a cabinet for some knee space. Make sure there's an electrical outlet nearby, and don't forget task lighting to help you thread your needle.
Dog washing tub. Every friend and neighbor with a pooch will be green with envy when you show them your personal dog washing station. This is a great addition for laundry rooms that have an entrance to the outdoors or a garage. Wash Fido's dirty paws and soiled fur before he comes into the house.

Tip: Tiling the washing station and your laundry-room floors will make cleanup a cinch.
Raised washer and dryer. Bending down to take heavy loads of clothes out of a washer and dryer isn't good for anyone's back. A platform like this takes the (literal) pain out of washing and drying and has a seamless look.

Tip: Aim to lift your washer and dryer at least 15 inches for the best fit.
Drip-drying location. A drip-dry station in this spacious laundry room allows wet garments to dry without making a mess. In lieu of more cabinetry, this cavity was tiled all over for ultimate water protection.

Tip: A bar from the top provides a spot to hang clothes, and the floor drain guarantees there is no standing water.
Floor drain. Even if you don't have a specialized drip-dry spot, a floor drain can be a great idea in your laundry room. Not only does it make everyday cleaning easy, it can also prevent serious damage if your washing machine ever leaks or overflows.
Ironing board. For those short on space, a drawer ironing board can give you the benefits of a built-in board without taking up wall or cabinet space. You'll never have to wrestle with a squeaky freestanding board again. These are easy to retrofit into budget remodels, too.
Hampers. Built-in laundry hampers like these can help you keep your laundry space extra tidy with minimal effort. When the clothes are piling up, just make sure the drawers are closed! This homeowner has a hamper for whites, colors and darks — all tucked away and out of sight.


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Monday, September 9

Kitchen Evolution

Jennifer Ott

When I began studying kitchen design many (many!) years ago, I learned all about the much-venerated kitchen work triangle — in which the refrigerator, range and sink are placed 4 to 9 feet apart, forming a roughly equilateral triangle. This design principle was developed back when most people had smaller, closed-off kitchens, where only one person prepared and cleaned up meals. It's an efficient way to lay out appliances and the sink in a small closed or semiclosed kitchen.

The work triangle is still useful today, but with kitchens that now run the gamut from tinysingle-wall galleys up to large open-plan kitchens, it's more useful to think in terms of work zones instead.
Work zones are really just the natural evolution of the kitchen work triangle. As kitchens grew in size and opened up to other rooms in the house, it became more of a challenge to place appliances in a neat triangular layout. We also have more appliances than ever before — dishwashers, extra sinks, microwaves, separate cooktops and wall ovens — not to mention more people working and socializing in the space. By sectioning off your kitchen into work zones, you'll maximize efficiency in a larger space; more cooks, as well as their guests, will be better accommodated.
Group appliances and fixtures according to use. To set up work zones in your kitchen, think of the tasks you perform regularly: storing food, prep, cooking, baking, serving, eating, cleaning, making coffee, chilling wine etc. A work zone contains everything you use to perform each task.

For instance, you should place your dishwasher next to your sink, with a compost bin and a garbage bin nearby to streamline kitchen cleanup.
craftsman kitchen by First Lamp
Store what you need where you need it most. In addition to grouping appliances and fixtures according to use, give yourself enough storage in each zone for what you need to perform the task.

This wood-topped baking zone is perfect for kneading bread or rolling out pizza dough. All the bread-making and baking tools can be stored in the cabinets below. Someone can easily work at this station while another person prepares food in another part of the kitchen.
Provide landing areas next to major appliances. For safety and efficiency, consider placing a countertop landing area next to your major kitchen appliances, especially the range, cooktop, microwave and wall ovens.

You want to be able to quickly set down something hot without having to trek halfway across your kitchen. This will also give you a cooking work zone; you can store items like knives, cutting boards and pots and pans in the cabinets and use the countertops for chopping and cooking prep.
Create a kids' zone. If you have children and a good-size space, set up an area in the kitchen where the kids can hang out, do homework and eat snacks. This will allow you to all be in the kitchen together without the little ones getting underfoot.
Consider a zone for guests. If you have an open kitchen and like to entertain often, you know how important it is to have an area where guests can hang out and chat while you prepare food and drinks. A large island or peninsula works well for this, since it can act as a barrier that keeps visitors from getting in your way while also giving them a place to perch while you work. Again, think about the items you use for serving and entertaining, and store them in the cabinets below so you can easily access them.
Widen the aisles. Whether you opt for the traditional work triangle or to break up your kitchen into work zones, pay attention to your kitchen's aisle widths. The recommended minimum aisle width is 42 inches, but I prefer 48 inches, especially in kitchens with multiple cooks. If you cook and entertain often and have the space, you could go as wide as 54 inches. Wider than that, though, and your space will likely become inefficient, as you'll spend more time walking than cooking. 


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Sunday, September 8

How much does a kitchen makeover cost

Emily Fisher - Rock Paper Hammer


How much is it going to cost? This inevitably comes up during an initial consultation for a remodeling project, and is important to address. As an architect, I usually provide ballpark ranges early on in the process to ensure that everyone is on the same page and that the scope of work we are talking about is realistic for the budget the homeowner has in mind. A more detailed construction estimate comes later, once a design has been completed.

Let’s look at remodeling a kitchen as an example. The ranges below are based on my experience as an architect and a builder in the Louisville, Kentucky, area. Of course, these costs will vary based on locale; a kitchen remodel tends to be more expensive in large metropolitan areas, less expensive in smaller towns and rural areas, and comparable in other midsize cities. 
1. Basic upgrade: $5,000 to $15,000. This may include updates as simple as new cabinet knobs, light fixtures, plumbing fixtures and paint — often DIY projects. Perhaps it includes replacing the appliances, painting the cabinets or putting new doors put on them, installing new countertops or adding a tiled backsplash. But the general rule in this price range is that everything will more or less stay in the same place, and the shell of the kitchen (floors, walls and ceiling) will stay intact.
2. Renovation: $15,000 to $35,000. This scope would allow for all of the above plus new cabinets and possibly some changes to the room's shell, such as removing soffits, relocating lighting or adding a skylight. It may include new flooring or replacing a window within an existing opening. But as with the first category, this budget assumes that the major features will stay in place and that the floor plan will not be dramatically altered.
3. Remodel/addition: $35,000 to $75,000 and up. A larger-scale remodel may include any or all of the above, as well as a new layout of the kitchen space and possibly nearby rooms. It could involve an addition or opening walls up to adjacent spaces. With a project of this scope, it is wise to enlist an architect or other design professional to ensure that you are making the best use of the space and exploring all options. Sometimes there are relatively simple things, such as relocating that bulky refrigerator or making some minor changes to the floor plan, that you may have never thought of and that can have amazing results.
While the third option is indeed the most costly, it is usually well worth it for the improvement of space and functionality that can result. Things such as natural light and space flow may be less tangible than granite countertops, but they are infinitely more important in creating a space that feels good. I believe in getting the space itself right even if it means having to select less-expensive fixtures and finishes.

What's great about this kitchen? Foremost, the window and the tree. How different would this space feel if there were a solid wall at the end?

Costs will vary widely

Obviously the categories above are broad, and the project cost will vary widely depending on location, scope, how much help you need and the finishes you choose, but they can be useful as you start weighing what is important to you.

Having realistic expectations of how much your dream kitchen is going to cost, and adjusting your scope accordingly, will make for a more enjoyable and successful project regardless of your budget.


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Wednesday, September 4

SURVIVING YOUR REMODEL -11 must ask questions

Mitchell Parker Houzz Editorial


If buying a home is all about location, location, location, then remodeling one is all about planning, planning, planning. We’ve all heard the stories: friends and family doing dishes in their bathroom sinks, cooking meals on hot plates in the garage, grabbing food from the refrigerator that’s now in the laundry room. Such are the travails of remodeling a house. And there’s really nothing you can do but be prepared. “It’s a big inconvenience but a big payoff,” says architect Brian Lucas.

If you’re about to embark on an extensive remodel or renovation, here are 11 questions you’ll want to ask, plus what to do to keep everything moving along smoothly. 
1. What will the weather be like?

Rainy, snowy, muddy, cold, hot? Remember, contractors and subcontractors will be going in and out of your house for hours all day during a remodel. This means that if it’s summer in Florida and you’re cranking the A/C all day, then you’re going to waste a lot of energy. If it's in the dead of a Minnesota winter, it's probably not the best time to peel the roof off.

What to do: If you're hoping to get your kitchen done by the winter holidays, you should be in the design phase by late August to early September at the latest. Also, ask your contractor how he or she is going to seal up the house to prevent dust buildup and air loss. Paul Conrado, a general contractor in Saratoga, California, who’s been building homes for more than 25 years, builds an insulated dust door out of plywood that can be locked from the homeowner’s side. This prevents air loss and dust buildup in the rest of the home — and affords some privacy. 
2. How much time is it going to take? 

Permits, inspection, building custom cabinets — these things take time, and sometimes you never know exactly how long something will take. Getting permits varies by city and can take a couple of days or sometimes up to 12 weeks or more.

What to do: Start as early as you can. While you’re drawing up plans and doing value engineering, have your designer or architect call to see how long the permit process will take. Also, try to be flexible about the deadline. If you make builders rush to meet a deadline, the quality will likely drop. “It’s important to have a continuous dialogue with your builder,” Conrado says. “You should be concerned if you drop by the jobsite and it’s empty. You should be calling your contractor and asking what’s going on.”

3. How long will your materials take to arrive?

So you really want that special tile from Italy? Or that cool new refrigerator that’s exported only from Germany? No problem! Just sit tight for three months. If you have to have it, then by all means order what will make you happy. But be prepared for the ramifications if all your workers have to stop midproject because they need to wait six more weeks for a material to arrive.

What to do: When you choose a material, ask about the lead time. And be flexible with materials. “There’s not just one perfect answer to materials,” Conrado says. “There are many ways to do it that would look good.” When in doubt, talk with your builder. Builders deal with many jobsites and see a lot of materials. They can usually suggest good alternatives.
4. Where will you store your materials?

Your contractors will need a staging area, and the best place for that is a garage or driveway. If your home business is based in the garage, you’ll need somewhere else secure and weatherproof for the materials.

What to do: If your cabinets are ready and you don’t have a place to store them, your contractor will have the cabinetmaker hold them, which can get expensive. Don’t have a place? Conrado suggests renting a temporary storage container that can be delivered to your property and secured.
5. Where will you stay and for how long?

As your house — not to mention your life — is ripped apart during a remodel, you might want to consider staying somewhere else. Hotels can get expensive, and staying with family can be taxing for some — especially if you get a call that your remodel has been delayed two weeks for some unforeseen event.

What to do: If you’re undertaking a major renovation that will last nine months to a year or more, rent a place to stay in. If it’s a shorter-duration project and you can’t stay with friends or family, and don’t want to hole up in a hotel room for weeks at a time, Conrado suggests buying a used RV or trailer with a kitchenette. It's like having a one-bedroom apartment onsite. “At the end, just sell the trailer,” he says. 
6. Where will you cook and do dishes? 

Conrado and his wife ate dinner in their garage for six months during a renovation. Granted, it probably wasn't as nice as the garage kitchen shown here, but Conrado did run a gas line through the wall and hook up his full Viking range to cook on (which probably wasn't up to code). "I have a photo of my wife eating at a poker table in our garage with a not-too-happy look on her face, which pretty much sums it up," he says.

What to do: Work with what you've got. Set up the fridge in the laundry room or garage. If you have an electric range, set that up in your garage (just make sure it's away from oily rags etc.). A microwave, toaster oven and hot plate in a laundry room or garage will get you through most meals. An outdoor grill can be your best friend. But also, you might want to budget for eating a lot of meals out. Do the dishes in a bathroom sink. “Remodeling is not perfect," Conrado says. "You will be inconvenienced."
7. Where will everyone go to the bathroom?

Chances are, if you’re remodeling one bathroom, you’ll have a powder room or another bathroom to use. But think about how long you’ll be sharing a bathroom with your family members. Also, your contractor and workers will need a place to go as well, and it’s not recommended that you open up a downstairs powder room to a cadre of construction workers.

What to do: Get a portable bathroom for workers. Conrado says a portable toilet costs about $100 a month, and there are higher-end versions for homeowners if you’re doing a remodel that will knock all your bathrooms out of commission.
8. What’s going to happen to your front yard? 

It’s not just a portable toilet. A renovation means trucks parked in your driveway, possibly a Dumpster, pallets of materials and debris everywhere, muddy sidewalks. It’s a tough thing to come home to, but you can’t expect it to be anything less than a mess.

What to do: Have a constant dialogue with your contractor and know when the trash company and city require debris to be picked up. In some places it’s daily; in others it’s weekly. Sometimes it’s an onsite Dumpster; other times there’s a trash pile that a truck comes and hauls away.

Also, let your neighbors know what’s going on. Your contractor might send a letter to your neighbors — you might want to ask him or her to do this; it’s a good marketing opportunity for them anyway — or the city might do it if it’s a big enough project, but the polite thing to do is let your neighbors know what's going on.
9. Does your homeowner's association or planning commission prevent anything?

Your HOA might not allow the type of home you had in mind. Better check with any sort of regulations before you get too caught up in one element of your renovation.

What to do: Check to see if you need to get your design approved by any departments or committees. These same committees also might dictate when contractors can work. For instance, they might allow construction to occur only between the hours of 7 a.m. and 5 p.m., and prohibit work on Sundays. This could set your project back if you haven’t taken it into account.
10. Will you please, for the love of God, stop the hammering?

Construction sites aren’t meditative places. People are constantly coming and going, hammering and cranking the band saw. If you’re a couple who both work and are gone all day, this might be no sweat. But if you’re a stay-at-home parent with young kids who need their daily nap, you’ll want to figure out a quiet place you can go to.

What to do: Arrange for a daily refuge at a friend or family member’s house if possible. If not, you might want to hold off renovating until you can rent or buy a used RV or stay in a hotel, or until your kids are old enough to be at school all day. Also, tool noise comes with the territory, but don't be afraid to tell your contractors to not blare their music all day.

11. Do you have time for this? 

If you’re not a morning person, you’re not going to like your general contractor's showing up at 7 a.m. every morning and looking for you. You need to be available to a general contractor. Also, you can’t exactly leave town on vacation for three months and hope all goes to plan. You’ll still need to be available for phone calls and emails, even if you’re in Australia and your home is in the U.S.

What to do: You need to be available to your general contractor to answer questions and make sure things are moving along smoothly. Conrado says that 8 a.m. is reasonably the latest time workers should show up. “These people have jobs; they have to work," he says. "If you want to have everyone show up at 10 a.m. every day, sure they’ll do it if you’re going to pay them for those hours they could be working.” 


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